tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-18907075650208136382024-03-13T03:11:16.099-07:00KOELSE.org projectblogThis blog shows project documentations of various projects done by members of association of experimental electronics.
Some projects are very easy and suitable for beginners, some are only for more advanced solderers.anttihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14584116421031884803noreply@blogger.comBlogger15125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1890707565020813638.post-49033086324599931922015-01-20T09:32:00.000-08:002015-01-20T09:36:40.250-08:00Simple cv circuits<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Here is some small bits that i have used in my synths and they might be helpful for others building experimental synth stuff. Opamps to use are lm324 (quad)or lm358 (dual). Op amps powered +9 (single supply)Harzahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05208468643052372633noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1890707565020813638.post-35455716689281063132015-01-20T09:26:00.000-08:002015-01-20T09:26:50.876-08:00Screaming CD4069 filter + distortionHere is veroboard layout and schematic of my 4069UB based filter. It is pretty easy to build and makes quite rough sounds. It will oscillate when resonance is kranked also the distortion part oscillates quite easely. It has lots of gain so a volume pot before the final output might be a good idea :)<br />
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Most of the component values are tweakable. The two filtering caps (10n in schematic+vero layout) can be changed anything from 4,7n to 47n (larger values for more bass) It works from +5 to +12v. <b>pin 14 on 4069 is not connected</b> <b>directly to +voltage but through 1k resistor and then a 47uF from pin 14 to ground (this part is missing from my schematic but it is drawn on the vero layout).</b><br />
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<br />Harzahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05208468643052372633noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1890707565020813638.post-80768925491209343652011-11-03T13:03:00.000-07:002011-11-06T22:10:58.870-08:00PoliceMy first contribution for <a href="http://101sequencers.blogspot.com/">101 Sequencers project</a>, named Police after inscription found in the box that became the encasing.<br />
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The core parts of this sequencer were assembled during Modular Collective Instrument workshop (given by <a href="http://mediataide.com/kokomys/">Kokomys</a> in <a href="http://mansedanse.com/">Mansedanse 2011 festival</a>) as the master clock for the Instrument. The core has a simple 4060 binary counter with internal clock, with two outputs with 1/4 frequency ratio and a pot for frequency control.<br />
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For 101 sequencers project, I expanded the sequencer to have four outputs and external clock signal input, selectable by switch. When the external clock is in use, 4060 performs frequency division, giving out 1/64, 1/256, 1/512 and 1/1024 of the input signal. This will be used to create longer sequences. With one hundred and one sequencers on the stage, we can afford very long sequences also.<br />
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Since 4060 is a ripple counter, the circuit also contains an inversion stage, making the different outputs change state in a maybe more musical way. NAND gates are used for inversion instead of simple inverters simply because 4093 was on hand at the moment.<br />
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yj5c62g94NM/TrLz0iw747I/AAAAAAAAACo/Kmlch4Hbrw0/s1600/Police-schematic.png"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5670862964823679922" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yj5c62g94NM/TrLz0iw747I/AAAAAAAAACo/Kmlch4Hbrw0/s400/Police-schematic.png" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; height: 269px; width: 400px;" /></a>Otto Urpelainenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09013627102331014047noreply@blogger.com24tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1890707565020813638.post-82959830339703752932011-09-09T03:39:00.000-07:002011-09-09T04:31:43.998-07:00Lofi mixer with cd4069Here is a lofi mixer+distortion, the component values are examples...<div><br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_3efxHFY7VY/TmntHrLkgUI/AAAAAAAAAGM/ln3TUOrWD3U/s1600/4069mixerdist.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 158px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_3efxHFY7VY/TmntHrLkgUI/AAAAAAAAAGM/ln3TUOrWD3U/s320/4069mixerdist.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5650307923619119426" /></a>It uses one inverter from cd4069 as a summing amplifier. You can add more channels by repeating the input circuitry (100k pot, 0,1uF cap, 47k resistor) The 500k pot is gain and will give a nice amount of distortion if/when needed :) You can use a single 4069 chip to build both filters in the previous post and this mixer.</div>Harzahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05208468643052372633noreply@blogger.com25tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1890707565020813638.post-22882599882831133992011-09-09T02:41:00.002-07:002011-09-09T03:27:22.586-07:00Filters with cd4069<div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div>Here are two easy to build filter circuits based on the cd4069 chip. I´ve used them in my recent projects and I´m quite pleased how they work. These schematics are examples meant to be a starting point and the component values are examples so feel free to experiment with different values.<div><br /></div><div>First a lowpass filter</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><img src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UT3gIGkRWdc/TmniY56NIWI/AAAAAAAAAF8/AxmR0gkBCAA/s320/4069filter1.jpg" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 127px;" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5650296125002686818" />It uses three inverters. So you can build two with a single 4069. R1 and R2 are the cutoff frequency use a 10k-20k stereo pot or two ldrs and leds driven with a cv source (lfo,sequencer etc.). Cap values are drawn 0,1uF but I´ve built one with 0,047uF and it worked fine. The 100k pot is resonance, and this filter will oscillate when resonance is turned up. There are two output options drawn in the schematic "out" (wich is more bassy) and "out2". You might want to use a output cap (1uF).<div><br /></div><div>Second one is a bandpass filter.<img src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DBwm6BbvO7M/Tmnl-DK88NI/AAAAAAAAAGE/f4WCE0WY0Vs/s320/4069bpfilter.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5650300061678891218" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 202px; " /><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>This thing uses only one inverter. Try different cap values instead of 0,01uF ones(maybe from 0,001 to 0,068) and they dont all need to be the same. This is also voltage controlled with the npn-transistor you can use a pot to ground, ldr etc. insead if you like. </div><div><br /><div><br /><div><br /></div><div><br /></div></div></div></div>Harzahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05208468643052372633noreply@blogger.com25tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1890707565020813638.post-39267939931348707492008-04-05T05:07:00.000-07:002008-04-10T13:29:44.920-07:00cmos-lizardI made this cmos 40106 based noisemaker as a dubsiren or something. It has 1 oscillator and 2 LFOs. I didn´t have any plans when i started just a 40106 chip and some components. First i built a simple squarewave osc from 1/6 of the chip ran it through pulsewidht modulator (again 1/6 of 40106) with Lfo (1/6)<br /><br />Then i added second lfo with led and ldr for pitch modulation. The best part was "starve" pot ->just a 10k pot in series with battery + to ic pin 14. Some really crazy sounds can be made with playing with this pot. Here is a schematic of the oscs and lfos<br /><p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5187714086635045026" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_3FN-mabMHe8/R_52eeIsAKI/AAAAAAAAADE/ycmzK46s7Fo/s400/schematic+dubmos.bmp" border="0" />The component values are what i happened to have so try different values for the results you like. Add more buttons, switches etc. for more playability (only 1 button in the schematic for output) for example i did a powercut button (normally closed) with cap in parallel (47 uF)</p><p>work in progress videos <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Obpgbwqqg0">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Obpgbwqqg0</a> and <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2lUz9t-jzKM">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2lUz9t-jzKM</a> and a video of the finished piece <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WF3NOiu0AUY">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WF3NOiu0AUY</a></p><p>here is a picture of the finished piece. <img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5187142903598020866" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_3FN-mabMHe8/R_xu_Pgl-QI/AAAAAAAAAC0/zH4lOI-8Fxs/s400/cmoslizard+004.jpg" border="0" /></p>Harzahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05208468643052372633noreply@blogger.com61tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1890707565020813638.post-74015713713388817562007-11-20T02:51:00.000-08:002007-11-20T02:56:39.944-08:00Cardboard pcb and recycled parts<div><br /><br /><div>Cardboard pcb and recycled components<br /><br />The idea for making electronic projects on cardboard came from Ciat Lonbardes paper circuits. I had used veroboard previously. But it was a bit difficult to change more complicated designs to work on veroboard. Also making pcb:s at home seemed complicated with all chemicals, UV-lamps etc. Cardboard may not be the most sturdy material, but it is cheap, always available, environment friendly and it works. I also have a pretty good collection of circuit boards from broken equipment. A lot of components (resistors, caps, transistors etc.) can be recycled from these. So using cardboard pcb and recycled components you can build electronic projects at home more environment friendly and you don’t need to spend any money on the parts. (Of course some parts are a bit difficult to find from random broken equipment.)<br /><br />1. you can print picture of the pcb you want on paper and then glue it on a piece of cardboard. Or design your own circuit by drawing it. Postcards can easily be used as material.<br /><br />2.poke holes for the components with a needle or other sharp object.</div><br /><br /><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5134873919080962834" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_3FN-mabMHe8/R0K8n6k9GxI/AAAAAAAAACc/zGLO0VqFM8s/s400/wp+top.jpg" border="0" />Top wiew of my wp-20 board.<br /><br />3. insert the components and solder them according your pcb design. In most cases components reach each other with no jumper wire. But when using recycled components the pin are often cut bit too short so you might need jumper with them. <img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5134874327102855970" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_3FN-mabMHe8/R0K8_qk9GyI/AAAAAAAAACk/7qFpAD4kuRM/s400/wp+bottom.jpg" border="0" /><br />Bottom wiew of my wp-20 board</div><div><br />4. because device made on cardboard may be damaged easily. Protect it with proper housing. </div><div> </div><div> </div></div>Harzahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05208468643052372633noreply@blogger.com39tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1890707565020813638.post-68333896571299215082007-10-16T11:33:00.000-07:002007-10-28T12:34:37.403-07:00WP-20 sound effects synthesizer<div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_3FN-mabMHe8/RxUFm4Aq-OI/AAAAAAAAABc/IH3AKJcpN5o/s1600-h/wp20+1+(6).jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5122006316632176866" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_3FN-mabMHe8/RxUFm4Aq-OI/AAAAAAAAABc/IH3AKJcpN5o/s320/wp20+1+(6).jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><div>I have been building some noisemakers using cardboard as pcb. It´s a nice material for building electronic projects at home because: 1. everybody may not have the needed equipment to make "real" pcb:s 2. every one has a piece of cardboard laying around. 3. It is cheap and easy. This is my latest creation on cardboard pcb. It´s wp-20 sound effects synth. It was very nice to do on cardboard because there was enough spce between components in the original pcb design. </div><br /><div>I did´t use the original noise source with 18v but i built a simple 9v noise generator. I left q1, r1, c3 unconnected to the board. here is the noise circuit.</div><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5126472610484786450" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_3FN-mabMHe8/RyTjrZK3FRI/AAAAAAAAACU/YHGC1Uuy8OQ/s400/Simple%2520White%2520Noise%2520Generator%25202.jpg" border="0" /></div>output of the noise generator was connected to r3 through 50k resistor.<br /><div></div><br /><div>Testing wp-20 video:</div><div><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hEDE96ycAec">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hEDE96ycAec</a><br /></div><div><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dol7MjE7g8M">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dol7MjE7g8M</a></div></div><div> </div><div>link to music from outer space wp-20 page:<br /><br /><div><a href="http://www.musicfromouterspace.com/analogsynth/WP20/WP20_PG1.html">http://www.musicfromouterspace.com/analogsynth/WP20/WP20_PG1.html</a></div><br /><br /><br /><div>I made a sub oscillator for my wp-20. It is based on cd4040 ripple counter it uses the vco squarewave (before the 100k resistor marked R8 in the original wp20 schematics) as clock input and divides it. Six switches (from 1 octave down to 6 octave down) select the harmonics to vcf-vca. The circuit is quite simple the component values may be tweaked to get better performance. I used components that I happened to have so some different values might work better but these seem to work ok. (sub osc out is connected to ic 2b pin 6 through a 100k resistor like the vco) here is a picture of the circuit<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5124578572545751362" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_3FN-mabMHe8/Rx4pD4Aq-UI/AAAAAAAAACM/FeEh9APUP-0/s400/solderside.bmp" border="0" /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5124578379272223026" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_3FN-mabMHe8/Rx4o4oAq-TI/AAAAAAAAACE/d6AHuZ6Saqo/s400/components.bmp" border="0" /></div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div>Harzahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05208468643052372633noreply@blogger.com60tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1890707565020813638.post-63937794782054554552007-06-06T02:27:00.000-07:002007-06-06T02:48:37.818-07:00Stereo tapedeck oscillator<div>This is a easy and quick way to make a feedback oscillator from old tapedeck. You just need to connect the rec input with output. <img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5072882943503907282" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_3FN-mabMHe8/RmaAKOqwOdI/AAAAAAAAABU/CLAot19qDSI/s320/TAPEOSC.JPG" border="0" /></div><br /><div>You can do it by soldering wires between the in and out lines (r in to r ou and l in to l out) Most homestereo tape players use rca connectors and you can use them as your outputs. You can also do this without soldering if you have proper wires to do the connections ( few rca wires and Y shaped rca adaptor for output from feedbackloop). Press rec/play to get it working. Frequency of the oscillator is adjusted by turning the tapedecks rec level knobs. The singnal is quite strong so I do not recommend you to plug this to your most expensive or fragile sound gear.</div>Harzahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05208468643052372633noreply@blogger.com37tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1890707565020813638.post-15016031483719011882007-05-30T13:00:00.000-07:002007-05-30T13:15:58.010-07:00Mobile experimental electronics laboratorium<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/anttia/521978133/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/220/521978133_1af369378f.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="IMG_7023.JPG" /></a><br /><br />This is a work in progress, we are just starting. For years we have been talking about a mobile experimental electronics platform, that we could drive anywhere. Now we have a solid base for that.<br /><br />We were just given an electric car, Elcat. Our aim is to integrate mobile experimeltal electronics laboratory and facilities to play electronic sounds straight from the van. Idea is to integrate all essential features inside the van, so we just drive it anywhere we want to show our stuff.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/anttia/521957912/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/192/521957912_64bd163444_m.jpg" width="240" height="160" alt="IMG_7018.JPG" /></a><br /><br />Project will propably advance quite slowly. The first obstacle on our way are the batteryes. The ones we have are in a pretty bad shape, and new set will cost us about 1000-4000 euros. Beside that we will have to pay quite a lot of money to get the car registered. Among other things we will have to pay DIESELL TAX for not using gas.<br /><br />well project is advancing slowly, we should be getting the car toed to Vallila in couple of days, and after that we will start measuring, planning and of course we must start to gather money for this financially disasterous project.anttihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14584116421031884803noreply@blogger.com40tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1890707565020813638.post-78911239377833409112007-03-05T12:08:00.000-08:002007-03-06T13:07:36.888-08:00Mc-7 progressI´ve been working with my MC-7 for some time now and here is picture of it now<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5038535708574363954" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_3FN-mabMHe8/Rex5iBmyMTI/AAAAAAAAABI/6L3eDzIhW_4/s320/mc-7+progress+002.jpg" border="0" /><br /><br /><p>From left to right: </p><p>Pulse outputs module with led indicators: Four rhythm pulses (hi-hat, bassdm, snare, extra pulse : mirror to accomp Two from keypress : 1 note and second note: pulse depends on the chosen instrument. Second note output also follows accompaniment line when accompaniments are on. </p><p>Simple Low-pass Filter circuit (same as in music from outer space wsg)</p><p>36 point patch bay: made from amphenol connectors ( it is really easy to use with alligatorclips.)</p><p>Switch panel for cutting or connecting some original features: nice to redirect some signals in there.</p><p>Still plenty of work to be done. Next module will be some bending controls that are just too good to be left only for the patch bay. Also every time i open the keyboard and do some testing with the circuit board I end up soldering new wires to new points on the board... maybe i should add one 12 point amphenol to the patch bay. </p><p></p>Harzahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05208468643052372633noreply@blogger.com23tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1890707565020813638.post-25951112645697402952007-02-17T03:17:00.000-08:002007-02-21T08:52:43.023-08:00MC-7 keyboard<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_3FN-mabMHe8/RdmApSXWxgI/AAAAAAAAAAk/Sus-gfx4YXU/s1600-h/mc-7+project+004.jpg"></a><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_3FN-mabMHe8/Rdbk1d402pI/AAAAAAAAAAM/_Y9MbDACEVQ/s1600-h/mc-7.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5032461240840280722" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_3FN-mabMHe8/Rdbk1d402pI/AAAAAAAAAAM/_Y9MbDACEVQ/s320/mc-7.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br />I found a nice keyboard from flea market yesterday. It was not in very good condition-> the drum section was completely silent. I opened it and found that some components were loose because of bad soldering work. After soldering these properly the drums started working.<br />The sounds of this keyboard are simple but very nice. All keyboard instruments are quite raw sounding squarewave. Drum sounds are short noise (hi-hat), smooth click (bass drum), and sharper click (snare). </div><br /><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><br /><div><br />Original features:<br />2 notes polyphony (monophonic if accompaniments are on) </div><br /><br /><br /><div></div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5032461726171585186" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_3FN-mabMHe8/RdblRt402qI/AAAAAAAAAAU/2Hwt6-M8BUo/s320/mc7+controlpanel.jpg" border="0" />Cotrol panel from left to right:<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div>-power on/off switch<br />-accomp volume 4 way switch – this controls only volume of the drums not the accompaniment bass line<br />-master volume 4 way switch<br /><br />Rhythm section:<br />-8 preset rhythms: disco, march, rock, waltz, pops, 16 beat, rhumba, bossanova<br />-accomp on/off button: the accompaniments are very simple and funny<br />-tempo buttons: slow and fast<br />-synchro button<br />-start button<br />-stop button<br /><br />Orchestra section:<br />-8 preset instruments: clarinet, violin, oboe, piano, elec guitar, xylophone, harpsichord, mandolin<br />-sustain button<br />-vibrato button<br />-demo button<br /><br />record section:<br />-record button: 28 notes<br />-play/stop button<br /><br />Custom drummer section:<br />-3 drum pads: bass drum, snare, hi-hat<br />-program button: 16 steps<br />-play/space button<br /><br />After some testing I found out that each of the three drum sounds are triggered from individual pins from the ic. There is also a fourth trigger pulse witch was unused in this model. I soldered wires from all 4 pins. Now I have 4 trigger output lines that follow the preset rhythms and three of them (bass drum, hi-hat and snare trigger signals) are programmable for 16 step sequences. These wires can be connected to various points on the pcb, when 1 or more of them are routed to the pins that read the buttons/keyboard you get many strange rhythmical bleeps and other crazy features like “bouncing” tempo and “random” notes and chords played.<br />I also found the output pins for keyboard sounds and the accompaniment sounds, these can be connected to various points on the pcb to change and modulate the sounds in many ways.Because the many possibilities of expanding the features of this keyboard I decided to build an extension case to fit the new controls, outputs, patch bay etc. So many ideas: adding a low pass filter circuit, new drum sound circuits to use with the trigger signals, joystick controller for some features, new buttons, switches and a patch bay…. a lot of decisions to make. </div><div><br /> </div><div>Well now I addad few wires (30 and counting) to different points on the pcb. All of these will be going to a patch bay so there is quite many possibilities to change the sounds and functions of the keyboard. Here is a picture.</div><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5033195913377924626" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 282px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 178px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" height="188" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_3FN-mabMHe8/RdmBBCXWxhI/AAAAAAAAAAs/-GORWr-tFz4/s320/mc-7+project+004.jpg" width="293" border="0" />The new wires from the pcb are soldered to a piece of stripboard so it will be easier to direct them to different controls and patch bay. </div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div>After some thinking and going through materials at our studio. I found the perfect extension case. It seems that I´m going for a modular design with this one. :)<br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5034028711831586338" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_3FN-mabMHe8/Rdx2cSXWxiI/AAAAAAAAAA8/f4fUCV9kp20/s320/mc-7+modularcase+003.jpg" border="0" /><br /><div>Here is mc-7 posing with the extension case. I cut some new panels from red plastic. The alumnium panels were on the case. </div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div></div>Harzahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05208468643052372633noreply@blogger.com47tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1890707565020813638.post-74977333557165386792007-02-14T02:15:00.000-08:002007-02-14T05:05:24.560-08:00Bending Yamaha PSR-6I got my hand on Yamaha PSR-6 and of course I did bend it :)<br />here is the story, hope you can learn something.<br /><br />after opening look for the big chips...<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdLsUjwu5iI/AAAAAAAAADg/8mYgbiHAWx8/s1600-h/top.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdLsUjwu5iI/AAAAAAAAADg/8mYgbiHAWx8/s320/top.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5031343571667445282" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />here are the two main chips the XE323B0 is CPU and YM2413 is the FM sound chip.<br />and the PCB side looks like this(note:image flipped around for better viewing):<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdLsoTwu5jI/AAAAAAAAADo/rcWVBOxvOjg/s1600-h/bottom.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdLsoTwu5jI/AAAAAAAAADo/rcWVBOxvOjg/s320/bottom.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5031343910969861682" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />there is nice information of YM2413<br /><a href="http://www.smspower.org/maxim/docs/ym2413am/index.html">YM2413 FM Operator Type-LL (OPLL) Application Manual</a><br />and as far as i understand the CPU sends bits on eight data lines to FM chip and the sound's are made inside the FM chip...<br /><br />after reading nice instructions on <a href="http://www.circuit-bent.net/pss-270-tutorial.html">circuit-bent.net on bending PSS-270</a><br />I wanted to know more about the data flow between the CPU and FM chips. I installed LEDs that indicate if the pins are high of low, a kind of dataflow monitor.<br /><br />some details:<br /><br />wires attached to YM2413<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdL4pDwu5kI/AAAAAAAAADw/DPfLOT8dwcc/s1600-h/data.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdL4pDwu5kI/AAAAAAAAADw/DPfLOT8dwcc/s320/data.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5031357117994296898" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />wires coming out from little screw hole<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdL45zwu5lI/AAAAAAAAAD4/4ElZwRnUWl8/s1600-h/hole.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdL45zwu5lI/AAAAAAAAAD4/4ElZwRnUWl8/s320/hole.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5031357405757105746" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />transistor station<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdL5TDwu5mI/AAAAAAAAAEA/oqDpGLLV7HA/s1600-h/trans.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdL5TDwu5mI/AAAAAAAAAEA/oqDpGLLV7HA/s320/trans.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5031357839548802658" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />the leds and transistor station<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdL5fTwu5nI/AAAAAAAAAEI/3dPRGBvfRgM/s1600-h/monback.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdL5fTwu5nI/AAAAAAAAAEI/3dPRGBvfRgM/s320/monback.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5031358050002200178" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />And finally the schematic:<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdL52Dwu5oI/AAAAAAAAAEQ/cw2NAEIixd8/s1600-h/shemo.gif"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdL52Dwu5oI/AAAAAAAAAEQ/cw2NAEIixd8/s320/shemo.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5031358440844224130" border="0" /></a><br />duplicate this 8 times.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T2vM4buqbSg">here is a video of this thing running</a><br /><br />next thing to do is the switches and the banana board.<br /><br /><br />here is my messy soldering but - everything is fine i checked whit multimeter - no short circuit's :)<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdL7CTwu5pI/AAAAAAAAAEY/C2huBJHsunQ/s1600-h/cut.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdL7CTwu5pI/AAAAAAAAAEY/C2huBJHsunQ/s320/cut.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5031359750809249426" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />and here is the 2mm mini-banana patch points (yellow -from CPU. green- to FM)<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdL8Rzwu5qI/AAAAAAAAAEg/YtnEangubmc/s1600-h/bbay.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdL8Rzwu5qI/AAAAAAAAAEg/YtnEangubmc/s320/bbay.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5031361116608849570" border="0" /></a><br /><br />and here are switches for getting back to normal and for setting crazy settings<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdL8gzwu5rI/AAAAAAAAAEo/BL-z0-pLftE/s1600-h/kytk.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdL8gzwu5rI/AAAAAAAAAEo/BL-z0-pLftE/s320/kytk.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5031361374306887346" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Quote, circuit-bent.net<br />"Each switch now controls the flow of data from the FM chip to the main chip. Turn the yamaha on and select a patch (let's pull up #89 "ghost"), I usually play some keys(don't know if you have to do this or not), then turn some switches off , now select a different patch, and turn the switches back on. Now try playing the new patch. If it went well some of the data from the all patch got held up, and then inserted into the new patch making a totally different sound. Sometimes leaving the connections off will change the sounds also. I've noticed them some of the bent up patches will only work when multiple keys are played. I've heard that this will effect the drums as well, but I haven't gotten it to do much with them as of yet"<br /><br />after setting the bended tone - i messed around whit the banana patch -<br />it's sooo nice -<br /><a href="http://electro-music.com/forum/phpbb-files/psr6bend_168.mp3">listen .mp3 sound samples </a><br /><br />After making this I <span id="misp_compose_11" class="ms cr" title="Click for suggested spellings">received</span> some <span id="misp_compose_12" class="ms cr" title="Click for suggested spellings">questions</span>. Here are the questions and my <span id="misp_compose_13" class="ms cr" title="Click for suggested spellings">answers</span>:<br /><br />Quote, mister.<br />"I have recently begun bending a Yamaha PSR-6. The only info I have found on bending for this model of keyboard was your's. I had a few questions if you don not mind. First I wanted to know how your particular approach came out (hoe pleased are you with the results). Second, I wanted some more info on your LED wiring. I have just begun learning more details on electronics and from what I saw on the forum I'm farely certain I know what you did, but more details would be nice. For example, what type of NPN did you use exactly? Also where the hell did you get those pin jacks? I have found some probes that look similar, but I don't know if there are any sockets for them. I have oredered RCA and will use those, but I like the pin jacks a lot and even if I don't use them on this project it would be cool for future work. Thank you for your time and much repect for your work from me. I hope you can afford the time to help me out. Any details you can give would kick ass."<br /><br />Quote, sponge.<br />"hi there, i saw that you have successfully bend the yamaha psr-6. i picked one up the other day from a charity shop. im a little confused about what you were trying to do with it... sounded very cool though! would you be willing to tell me where the bends you found were, and what the LED / transistor circuits were for? i've found a couple of bends, but i've only bent one thing before, and that was a cheap effects pedal."<br /><br /><br />My answer:<br /><br />Lets start whit the schematics and pics:<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdL_MDwu5sI/AAAAAAAAAEw/MSOsXsaqfwI/s1600-h/map.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdL_MDwu5sI/AAAAAAAAAEw/MSOsXsaqfwI/s320/map.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5031364316359485122" border="0" /></a><br />here are the main chips from the "solder side".<br />red dots are points D0 - D7 of the FM chip YM2413<br />and the blue dots are points D0 - D7 of the CPU chip XE323B0<br />yellow lines indicate where you need to cut the traces.<br /><br />here is the YM2413 chip Pin Assignment:<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdL_hzwu5tI/AAAAAAAAAE4/_PY6IYHIPNY/s1600-h/ym2413.gif"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdL_hzwu5tI/AAAAAAAAAE4/_PY6IYHIPNY/s320/ym2413.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5031364690021639890" border="0" /></a><br /><br />here is the schematic:<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdL_xjwu5uI/AAAAAAAAAFA/YKTi2h0L6xY/s1600-h/psrb.gif"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdL_xjwu5uI/AAAAAAAAAFA/YKTi2h0L6xY/s320/psrb.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5031364960604579554" border="0" /></a><br />you need to ad this circuit to all eight points (D0 to D0, D1 to D1 ...)<br /><br />the transistors i used are C2389<br />- but you can use any general type NPN transistor. experiment whit the ones you have.<br /><br /><br />the bends i made are<br />1. 8 switches to control data flow<br />2. 8LEDs to monitor the data flow<br />3. data-patch bay to patch data<br /><br />Haven't had much time to play whit my Yamaha but i must say that I'm pleased whit the results.<br /><br />The method described in <a href="http://www.circuit-bent.net/pss-270-tutorial.html">Kevin Rees site</a> is good start.<br />here are some of my own that you can hear in the sample:<br />start whit sound 40, turn D0 off, change to sound 50 and turn the D0 on - start playing.<br />start whit sound 40, turn D7 off, change to sound 50 and turn the D7 on - start playing.<br />start whit sound 40, turn D0 off, change to sound 89 and turn the D0 on - start playing.<br /><br />As you can now imagine there are MANY combinations .<br />after i have set a sound. i start patching - but that's not that easy - the monitor helps in this - but it crashes a lot - by trial and error you will learn :)<br /><br />The D4 is used to trigger the sounds so if you have that turned off, nothing happens<br /><br />The pin jacks i got from <a href="http://www.yeinternational.fi/index.php?lang=eng">YEinternational</a> but they only serve you in Finland, Russia and the Baltics. The pin jacks are made by <a href="http://www.hirschmann.com/">Hirschmann</a>. Maybe if you ask your local supplier if they have those 2mm pin jacks? they can arrange something.<br /><br />About the LED data monitor.<br />Every time one of the points D0 -D7 goes high, LED D0-D7 goes on.<br />By looking the LED' s blink you can see the data flow and its easier to learn patching when you actually see whats going on in the inputs of the chip.<br /><br />hope this helps<br /><br />for more questions don't hesitate to post it here.<br /><br />Danieldanielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04369016524236811694noreply@blogger.com32tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1890707565020813638.post-73101862516287690592007-02-13T06:28:00.000-08:002007-08-03T01:59:48.806-07:00Using TV to display audio signals.<br /><br />you may have heard about: Wave Vessel, Wobblevision, Analog Visualization Unit, AVU, Psychoscope, o-scope, b&w tv into a large screen oscilloscope kits...etc...<br /><br />This is it all in one.<br /><br /><div style="direction: ltr;">Before we begin, I have to give everyone a warning.<br />DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS PROJECT!<br />MODIFYING TV IS A DANGEROUS PROCESS.<br />DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS UNLESS YOU KNOW THE DANGERS OF CAPACITORS AND<br />OTHER ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS. THERE IS A GREAT RISK OF POTENTIALLY<br />DEADLY ELECTRIC SHOCK, AND THERE IS THE POSSIBILITY OF FIRE OR EXPLOSION.<br />IF YOU TRY TO FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS, NO-ONE CANNOT BE HELD LIABLE<br />FOR ANY DAMAGE OR DEATH CAUSED WHILE BUILDING OR USING THE DEVICE<br /><br />Before you begin read these safety instructions:<br /><a href="http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/crtfaq.htm#crtsdc">Safe Discharging of Capacitors in TVs and Video Monitors</a><br /><a href="http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/crtfaq.htm#crtcsa">Cathode-ray tube Safety Issues</a><br /><a href="http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/deflfaq.htm#dssaf">Deflection System Safety</a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b69/dnny/danger.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px;" src="http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b69/dnny/danger.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a>There are two areas which have particularly nasty electrical dangers:<br />the non-isolated line power supply and the CRT high voltage.<br />Stay away from the red cable with the suction cup end.<br />After you have opened the TV unit wear rubber gloves!<br />(longer sleeves better)<br /><br /><div style="text-align: justify;"> <div style="text-align: left;"><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdHPLDwu5QI/AAAAAAAAAAM/cevPclsPcHE/s1600-h/anode.gif"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdHPLDwu5QI/AAAAAAAAAAM/cevPclsPcHE/s320/anode.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5031030047644771586" border="0" /></a><br />The principal of this audio signal displaying is that when TV is normally operated the Deflection Yoke</div> generates a magnetic field and use it to direct the electron beam in the cathode-ray tube.<br />Deflection Yoke gets signals from deflection circuit.</div> Two of the wires control the horizontal motion, and the other two<br />control the vertical motion. You just replace the Deflection Circuit<br />signals whit amplified audio signals and then controll the beam by the audio signal.<br /><br />I have made some schematics to clear how to route audio signals to<br />Deflection Yoke- these<br />schematics are based on information from <a href="http://censtron.com/resources/wave_vessel.php">censtron.com Wave Vessel </a><a href="http://censtron.com/resources/wave_vessel.php">page</a> and my own experiments.<br /><br />first you need to find out the two horizontal and two vertical wires.<br />these instructions on Censtron page will help you<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdHQ_Dwu5RI/AAAAAAAAAAU/tykN9_CXeL0/s1600-h/variations.png"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdHQ_Dwu5RI/AAAAAAAAAAU/tykN9_CXeL0/s320/variations.png" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5031032040509596946" border="0" /></a>"The diagram above shows all six possible wire combinations. The diagram is drawn from the angle of looking directly at the back of the tube. The colors I used are just for reference,and may be different depending on the model of the television."<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdHRuTwu5SI/AAAAAAAAAAc/VBJ8tG-vdLE/s1600-h/clip.png"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdHRuTwu5SI/AAAAAAAAAAc/VBJ8tG-vdLE/s320/clip.png" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5031032852258415906" border="0" /></a><br />"First clip and strip all four of the wires going to the tube, then connect them all back up using alligator clips.<br />Then, remove one of the clips, and turn the television on. If you get a vertical line, then the disconnected wire is one of the horizontal drive wires, if you get a horizontal line, then you disconnected a vertical wire. Turn the television back off, then follow the same process for the other<br />three wires to determine which direction each controls."<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdHShjwu5TI/AAAAAAAAAAk/tYvbD5DaZT0/s1600-h/yoke1.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdHShjwu5TI/AAAAAAAAAAk/tYvbD5DaZT0/s320/yoke1.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5031033732726711602" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />Here you see the wires going to yoke -><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />H=horizontal<br />Hg =horizontal ground<br />V=vertical<br />Vg=vertical ground<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b69/dnny/unmod.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 320px;" src="http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b69/dnny/unmod.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Here is the unmoded version:<br />Whit this you can see normal TV programs.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Here is the Censtron version (a<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdHT5Dwu5UI/AAAAAAAAAAs/YbEMwbQ7bR0/s1600-h/mod2.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdHT5Dwu5UI/AAAAAAAAAAs/YbEMwbQ7bR0/s320/mod2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5031035235965265218" border="0" /></a><br />Whit this setup you get a bar that differens in length<br />a bit like panel of KITT [the car from Knight Rider]<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdHUlTwu5VI/AAAAAAAAAA0/tIl5S3PCZqM/s1600-h/bar.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdHUlTwu5VI/AAAAAAAAAA0/tIl5S3PCZqM/s320/bar.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5031035996174476626" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdHWXTwu5WI/AAAAAAAAAA8/kZ32mXlSIm8/s1600-h/mod1.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdHWXTwu5WI/AAAAAAAAAA8/kZ32mXlSIm8/s320/mod1.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5031037954679563618" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Here is the Censtron version (b<br />Whit this setup you get vertical line that vibrates.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdHW6jwu5XI/AAAAAAAAABE/drsazeK3lYw/s1600-h/lines.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdHW6jwu5XI/AAAAAAAAABE/drsazeK3lYw/s320/lines.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5031038560269952370" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdHXxDwu5YI/AAAAAAAAABM/pdkJdxYWNXw/s1600-h/cmod3.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdHXxDwu5YI/AAAAAAAAABM/pdkJdxYWNXw/s320/cmod3.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5031039496572822914" border="0" /></a><br />Here is the stereo version.<br />Whit this setup you get pulsing circles<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdHYgTwu5ZI/AAAAAAAAABU/2eJFboLY2-w/s1600-h/circle.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdHYgTwu5ZI/AAAAAAAAABU/2eJFboLY2-w/s320/circle.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5031040308321641874" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />After reading this post on <a href="http://audiokarma.org/forums/archive/index.php/t-3208.html">audiokarma.org</a><br />i decided to ad second yoke...<br /><br />quote: DBerning on audiokarma.org<br />"Magnetic deflection TVs of this era needed the deflection yoke for energy storage for the flyback pulse<br />that was used to provide high voltage for the CRT. Because I was using the yoke for audio<br />deflection, I mounted a second deflection yoke somewhere in the TV cabinet so that the inductance<br />from the winding could be used in the flyback-based high-voltage circuit."<br /><br /><br />Here is my Philips TX:<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdHZpTwu5aI/AAAAAAAAABc/JU44AiEHNEw/s1600-h/TVWV.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdHZpTwu5aI/AAAAAAAAABc/JU44AiEHNEw/s320/TVWV.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5031041562452092322" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />One month later:<br /><br />Okay i did find the extra yoke but, it was not the right type.<br />This is what happened:<br />The picture was extremely bright! i mean really really bright.<br />I was very happy for a while, it looked so cool. After some 15 -30mins both of the TV sets<br />fuses were burn and the unit was extremely warm. Then i noticed there was a X-ray warning on the tube :" do not drive the CRT whit too much current/voltage or it will start produce X-rays.<br />So what i assume happened is that i drived the CRT whit too much voltage/current and it started to produce X-rays!<br /><br />What did we learn?<br />If you want to ad the extra yoke to extra brightness you need to<br />measure the yokes inductance first and then find another yoke that has<br />the same properties.<br />(or if you want a cheapo X-ray machine just replace the fuses whit thick wire);)<br /><br />Day later:<br /><br />I'm feeling lot better now<br /><br />i called to <a href="http://www.stuk.fi/english/">The Radiation and Nuclear Safety Authority of Finland</a> and asked<br />if i have been exposed to any radiation danger by moding my TV. They said that there is very<br />small possibility to get enough radiation from CRTs - in their test<br />the maximum X-ray radiation from television has been 100mGy/h (hundred milliGrays per hour)<br />and after that the tube has collapsed.<br /><br />To get symptoms from X-rays you need to get at least 100Gy.<br />The symptoms are then the same type of skin burns you get from sun.<br /><br />The X-ray radiation on tv-set is stronger in the back of the tube than<br />in the front. The X-ray born's when electrode hits the phosphor wall.<br />X-ray bounces back to the inner walls of tube. it keeps bouncing and gets weaker and dies.<br />The glass is thicker in the back so some x-rays get through but we are talking of<br />really small amounts of radiation.<br /><br />After replacing the fuses i tryed it again, so i connected the coil<br />to the points of horizontal and horizontal ground of the Deflection<br />Circuit(Board) - and wow it was cosmic again. - the beam was so bright - it was just like looking to sun.<br />well i realized that the unit heated a lot - so i attached two ventilators . . . and i took it to "koneisto" (<br />The Festival For Electronic Music in Helsinki) it was on stage whit <a href="http://www.aavikko.net/">Aavikko</a>. It lasted one hour,<br />almost the whole gig and died of over heating. I have to say that no TV has ever be so bright!<br />all the time it looked that it will explode any minute :)<br /><br />this is the setup what i did <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdHeFzwu5cI/AAAAAAAAACY/n8iXu9CvauE/s1600-h/willoverheat.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdHeFzwu5cI/AAAAAAAAACY/n8iXu9CvauE/s320/willoverheat.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5031046450124875202" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br />so i have been looking for the next TV (victim) to my experiments. I got now a correct size coil from the broken Philips TX.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Meanwhile Censtron has made their first color vessel:<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdHe0jwu5dI/AAAAAAAAACg/w99Lh7DzFvo/s1600-h/wvc-1.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdHe0jwu5dI/AAAAAAAAACg/w99Lh7DzFvo/s320/wvc-1.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5031047253283759570" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />"We just finished making the first Color Wave Vessel, with it you can now make the visualizations any color from invisible to white."<br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Two months later:<br /><br />My Friend gave me a old soviet travel-TV that was not working but, it could display the usual noise.<br />I did the things described in this article (whitout the extra coil)- whit a 2mm pinjack -patch panel and speakon connector - so i can connect straight to my amp.<br />here are some pictures:<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdHfbDwu5eI/AAAAAAAAACo/-LR53xAbcEc/s1600-h/cccptv.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdHfbDwu5eI/AAAAAAAAACo/-LR53xAbcEc/s320/cccptv.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5031047914708723170" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />not much space inside so i removed the speaker<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />The patch panel made of perspex:<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdHf0jwu5fI/AAAAAAAAACw/2baDemD0QOA/s1600-h/baytv.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdHf0jwu5fI/AAAAAAAAACw/2baDemD0QOA/s320/baytv.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5031048352795387378" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />the whole unit:<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdHgMzwu5gI/AAAAAAAAAC4/mT8_E1mUME4/s1600-h/pulsetv.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdHgMzwu5gI/AAAAAAAAAC4/mT8_E1mUME4/s320/pulsetv.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5031048769407215106" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdHgejwu5hI/AAAAAAAAADA/GDV5PSeKldM/s1600-h/wavetv.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_lZ4plnHPznw/RdHgejwu5hI/AAAAAAAAADA/GDV5PSeKldM/s320/wavetv.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5031049074349893138" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />This <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=odX9zl8tx8k">video</a> shows the beauty of electron beam bouncing whit music<br /><br /><br />UPDATE:<br />I tryed whit a color unit and gues what, it's really easy, the scope mod its the same as whit B/W tv's and the color adjuts mod is done by soldering of three potentiometers from the back of the PCB that's in the back of the CRT. and mounting new potentiometers to the case. here is a pic of the pots that needs to be taken of and replaced by a same value.<br /><a href="http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b69/dnny/pots.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b69/dnny/pots.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /><br />here is the color unit in action, Photo by Tomi F<br /><a href="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1292/961902678_2601c7d408.jpg?v=0"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px;" src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1292/961902678_2601c7d408.jpg?v=0" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br />Some links to DIY Oscilloscope's<br /><a onclick="return top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)" href="http://www.intio.or.jp/jf10zl/tvosc.htm" target="_blank">http://www.intio.or.jp/jf10zl<wbr>/tvosc.htm</a><br /><br />instructions to make GBDSO (GameBoy Digital Sampling Oscilloscope)<br /><a onclick="return top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)" href="http://www.reinerziegler.de/gbdso_uk.pdf" target="_blank">http://www.reinerziegler.de<wbr>/gbdso_uk.pdf</a><br /><br />LED-matrix oscilloscope<br /><a onclick="return top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)" href="http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Lakes/7156/articl3.htm" target="_blank">http://www.geocities.com<wbr>/SiliconValley/Lakes/7156<wbr>/articl3.htm</a><br /><br />there is a neat how to on geek technique. org<br />how to make Mac se/30 audio visualizers<br /><a onclick="return top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)" href="http://geektechnique.org/projectlab/707/how-to-make-mac-se30-audio-visualizers" target="_blank">http://geektechnique.org<wbr>/projectlab/707/how-to-make<wbr>-mac-se30-audio-visualizers</a><br /><br /><br />Take care<br />Daniel<br /></div>danielhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04369016524236811694noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1890707565020813638.post-85230079886530616682007-02-12T05:12:00.000-08:002007-02-13T06:46:03.620-08:00From Joystick to noisestick<h3 class="western" lang="fi-FI"> <span lang="en-GB">Noistick- create a noise making device from a joystick with autofire</span> </h3><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/anttia/309719589/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/116/309719589_e5d279dc14_m.jpg" alt="IMG_1241.JPG" height="160" width="240" /></a><p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="fi-FI"> <span lang="en-GB">This is experimental electronics project to turn your old joysticks into nice sound devices with no external sound source needed.</span> </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"><br /></p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"> What you need to build this project: </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/anttia/319604985/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/128/319604985_a714475f98_m.jpg" width="240" height="160" alt="IMG_1996.JPG" /></a><br /></p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="fi-FI"> <span lang="en-GB">1.Potentiometer (commonly pc or mac) joystick with autofire circuit. (C64, Atari and some other old joystics are different and there are no potentiometers inside them.)</span> </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="fi-FI"> <span lang="en-GB">Here in Finland these you can find these very cheap from fleamarkets. You recognice them from smooth and quite long movements of the stick and of course a switch that says autofire or turbofire. </span> </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="fi-FI"> <span lang="en-GB">The autofire circuit will act as oscillator and joysticks horizontal and vertical movement will be wired to control it.</span> </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="fi-FI"> <span lang="en-GB">2. soldering iron and a screw driver</span> </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="fi-FI"> <span lang="en-GB">3. some wire (or use the wire from joystick)</span> </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="fi-FI"> <span lang="en-GB">4. 9v battery and battery clip or a battery holder for 2-4 AA batteries</span> </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"> You might have problems fitting these inside the joystick. Make an external battery compartment. </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="fi-FI"> <span lang="en-GB">5. some capacitors, resistors and diodes (recycled components from old broken electronic devices will do fine)</span> </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="fi-FI"> <span lang="en-GB">6. amplifier. </span> </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"> Small active computer speakers are probably the cheapest test amps you can find. </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="fi-FI"> <span lang="en-GB">7. wires with alligatorclips (very useful when doing experiments) </span> </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="fi-FI"> <span lang="en-GB">8. output jack. </span> </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"><br /></p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"> Open your joystick to see what is inside. </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"><br /></p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="fi-FI"> <span lang="en-GB">1. transistor based (No example here, but read through this article and start experimenting with these too. )</span> </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"> 2. 555 based </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"> 3. cmos based </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"><br /></p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="fi-FI"> <span lang="en-GB">In this project we use 555 or cmos based circuit because they use only few components (In most cases 1 ic, 1 capacitor an 1 resistor) and are easy to do. When adding new components to circuit try different values with alligatorclips. </span> </p> <h1 class="western" lang="fi-FI"> <span lang="en-GB">555 timer</span> </h1> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"><br /></p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"> <img name="graphics1" src="http://docs.google.com/File?id=dgxwbzs4_2cqsv6r" align="bottom" border="0" height="157" width="279" /> </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"><br /></p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"> step1. power it up </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"><br /></p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="fi-FI"> <span lang="en-GB">To power this circuit battery + needs to be connected to pin 8 and ground (-) to pin 1 . In some cases the connections for + and ground are marked on the pcb. If not you can easily follow the copper traces under the board. At this point use alligatorclips to power your circuit.</span> </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"><br /></p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"><br /></p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="fi-FI"> <span lang="en-GB">step2. how to hear if it works</span> </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"><br /></p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="fi-FI"> <span lang="en-GB">When the circuit is powered correctly you can probe the circuit with alligator clips connected to input of your test amplifier. Pin 3 is output in the 555 circuit, just follow the copper traces on the pcb. You should be able to find ticking or motor running type sound. The oscillator is running quite slow because of the original timing network (resistors and capacitor).</span> </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"><br /></p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"> <img name="graphics2" src="http://docs.google.com/File?id=dgxwbzs4_3hdqn6z" align="bottom" border="0" height="133" width="333" /> </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="fi-FI"> <i><span lang="en-GB">diagram1. 555 oscillator inside the joystick</span></i> </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"><br /></p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="fi-FI"> <span lang="en-GB">step3. make it adjustable</span> </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"><br /></p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="fi-FI"> <span lang="en-GB">To make the sound adjustable remove resistor R1 and replace it with either x or y potentiometer inside the joystick (or both in series to get wider range). You can also change the capacitor to change the scale of the oscillator (larger values to get lower and smaller values to higher frequencies. Experiment different values)</span> </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"><br /></p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"> After the resistor is removed solder two wires to the points where resistor was connected. Then solder other ends to one of the two potentiometers. One wire to middle pin and one to side pin. You might want to solder a resistor in series with the potentiometer so that the oscillators scale stays in audible frequency (try different values to find which value you need). Now moving joystick will change the frequency of the sound. </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"><br /></p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"> <img name="graphics3" src="http://docs.google.com/File?id=dgxwbzs4_4c9rm4s" align="bottom" border="0" height="133" width="500" /> </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"> <i>diagram 2. x potentiometer wired to make the oscillators frequency adjustable </i> </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"><br /></p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="fi-FI"> <span lang="en-GB">step4. output</span> </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"><br /></p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="fi-FI"> <span lang="en-GB">Solder a capacitor between the output wire from circuit and output jack. The signal is quite strong so you might want to add volume control -> a resistor, trimmer or potentiometer to output line.</span> </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="fi-FI"> <span lang="en-GB">WARNING.I do not recommend that you to plug this or any other experimental sound devices to your most expensive hi-fi audio equipment. You might end up having broken expensive hi-fi audio equipment. </span> </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"><br /></p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="fi-FI"> <span lang="en-GB">step5. modulation input</span> </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="fi-FI"> <span lang="en-GB">You can feed external modulation signal to the 555 ic. Simply solder a wire between a input jack and pin 5 on the ic. Modulation signal needs to be quite strong. If you build two noisticks you can use one to modulate the other. As always-> experiment to get the best results. </span> </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"><br /></p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"> step6. buttons </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="fi-FI"> <span lang="en-GB">There are many possibilities to use the buttons. You should think what functions you need. Here is an example: Run the + wire through a button to the pcb. The circuit will be powered only when the button is pushed. Then add a electrolytic capacitor between the button connections (caps + connection to battery side). Now when the button released sound keeps on going for awhile (big capacitor values produce longer sound )</span> </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"><br /></p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="fi-FI"> <span lang="en-GB">step7. Make some noise</span> </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="fi-FI"> <span lang="en-GB">After all wires, components etc. are soldered properly and everything seems to be working. Close the screws and your noistick is ready to annoy people around you with its horrible sounds.</span> </p> <h1 class="western" lang="en-GB"> </h1> <h1 class="western" lang="fi-FI"> <span lang="en-GB">cmos hex inverter</span> </h1> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"><br /></p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="fi-FI"> <span lang="en-GB">This type is the most fun because you can easily build more than one oscillator around the chip. So you can have an individual oscillator for x and y movements of the joystick with adding just few components. Only two different circuitry is presented here. You may (and probably will) find various others. Same principles can be used to many other joysticks with hex inverter based circuitry. </span> </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"><br /></p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="fi-FI"> <span lang="en-GB">Both two joysticks use cmos hex inverter. First circuit uses 4069 second uses 74hc04 and the following instructions apply to these particular joysticks (the ic:s have same pinouts). If your joystick uses different ic than 4069 or 74hc04 you should check the pin connections and other information from datasheets (you can find them on the web) </span> </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="fi-FI"> <img name="graphics4" src="http://docs.google.com/File?id=dgxwbzs4_5dwxps7" align="bottom" border="0" height="218" width="320" /> </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"> step1. power it up </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"><br /></p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="fi-FI"> <span lang="en-GB">To power this circuit battery + needs to be connected to pin 14 and ground (-) to pin 7. Sometimes the connections for + and ground are marked on the pcb. ATTENTION! Some joysticks use 74hc…</span> </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="fi-FI"> <span lang="en-GB">marked chip (like the second example: 74hc04 hex inverter) It will fry if powered with 9v! With these use two to four AA batteries instead. Follow the copper traces on pcb to see witch wires go to these pins or solder new wires for battery. Make sure you connect the power correctly because wrog polarity can kill the cmos ic.</span> </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"><br /></p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"> step2. how to hear if it works </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"><br /></p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="fi-FI"> <span lang="en-GB">When the power is connected correctly you can probe the circuit with alligator clips connected to input of your test amplifier. You should be able to find ticking type slow squarewave sound. </span> </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"><br /></p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="fi-FI"> <img name="graphics5" src="http://docs.google.com/File?id=dgxwbzs4_6gpbdj7" align="bottom" border="0" height="315" width="363" /> </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="fi-FI"> <i><span lang="en-GB">diagram 1. 74hc04 oscillator inside joystick 2. c1 and r1 create the timing network. pin 7 is connected to ground. pin 14 to battery +</span></i> </p> <p class="western" style="text-indent: 0.91in; margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"><br /></p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"> <img name="graphics6" src="http://docs.google.com/File?id=dgxwbzs4_7g9p24b" align="bottom" border="0" height="315" width="394" /> </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="fi-FI"> <i><span lang="en-GB">diagram 2. 4069 oscillator inside joystick 1. c1 and r1 create the timing network. pins 1, 3, and 7 are connected to ground. pin 14 to battery +</span></i> </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"><br /></p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"><br /></p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"> step3. make it adjustable </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"><br /></p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="fi-FI"> <span lang="en-GB">To make this sound adjustable just remove the timing resistor (R1) and replace it with either x or y potentiometer inside the joystick. You can also change the capacitor (C1) to change the scale of the oscillator (larger values to get lower and smaller values to higher frequencies).</span> </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"><br /></p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="fi-FI"> <span lang="en-GB">After the resistor is removed solder two wires to the points where resistor was connected. Then solder other ends to one of the two potentiometers. One wire to middle pin and one to side pin. You might want to solder a resistor in series with the potentiometer so that the oscillators scale stays in audible frequency (try different values). Now moving joystick sideways or up and down will change the frequency of the sound, depending on witch potentiometer is wired . </span> </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"><br /></p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="fi-FI"> <span lang="en-GB">step4. second oscillator</span> </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"><br /></p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"> 4069 circuit </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="fi-FI"> <span lang="en-GB">Cut the traces from inverter to ground from pin 1 and pin 3. Also cut the trace between pins 8 and 5. Now the output of your first oscillator will be from pin 8 and you have ½ of the chip free. Now solder a capacitor between pins 1 and 4, connect pins 2 and 3 with a drop of solder, connect pins 4 and 5 with a drop of solder, wires from the unused potentiometer are connected to pins 1 and 6</span> </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"><br /></p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"> 74hc04 circuit </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="fi-FI"> <span lang="en-GB">The original circuit uses ½ of the chip to create the oscillator. The three remaining inverters will be used to create the other. You can copy the first oscillators circuit: a capacitor between pin 13 and 10, connect pins 12 and 11 with a drop of solder, connect pins 10 and 9 with a drop of solder and the remaining potentiometer between pins 13 and 8. When completed the circuit is the same as on the 4069 joystick. And here is the diagram.</span> </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"> <img name="graphics7" src="http://docs.google.com/File?id=dgxwbzs4_8g8q32j" align="bottom" border="0" height="473" width="394" /> </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="fi-FI"> <i><span lang="en-GB">diagram 3. two oscillators wired to joysticks x and y potentiometers </span></i> </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"><br /></p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"> step5. output and mixing </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="fi-FI"> <img name="graphics8" src="http://docs.google.com/File?id=dgxwbzs4_9cpjhtf" align="bottom" border="0" height="167" width="667" /><span lang="en-GB"><i>diagram 4. The mixing network either with resistors (left) or with diodes (right)</i></span> </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"><br /></p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="fi-FI"> <span lang="en-GB">You can mix the signals to a single output from the two oscillators with resistors or diodes. Try both and choose the mixing network you like. Or you can use stereo output connecting one oscillator to right channel and one to the left channel. Solder a capacitor between the output wire from mixing network and output jack. The signal is quite strong so you might want to add volume control -> a resistor, trimmer or potentiometer to output line.</span> </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"><br /></p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"><br /></p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"> step6. buttons. </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"><br /></p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="fi-FI"> <span lang="en-GB">In most joystick there are two buttons. You can run the output from each oscillator before the mixing network through individual button. Now by pushing one button you can hear one osc and pushing both buttons you can hear them both. (See also 555 timer joystick step6. buttons) </span> </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"><br /></p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="fi-FI"> <span lang="en-GB">step7. make some noise.</span> </p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"><br /></p> <p class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;" lang="en-GB"> After all wires, components etc. are soldered properly and everything seems to be working. Close the screws and your noistick project is completed. </p>anttihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14584116421031884803noreply@blogger.com66